Bu Oka in Ubud specializes in Babi Guling, whole roasted pig spiked with herbs and spices. On my last visit here the infamous Greg Hughes insisted that we go. We went. It was good. Very good.
It will probably come as no surprise to hear that many of my yogi classmates have dietary restrictions. Pork is pretty high on the list of things to not put on their plates. Thankfully, I'm not so evolved. I was looking forward to taking Suzy to this place, but with time winding down, and her travel stomach out of commission, another plan was hatched.
My friend Khem was only too happy to be my Babi Guling accomplice. Khem lives in Toronto, but is from Thailand. About ten years ago the show "Survivor" was filming near her hometown. They needed someone who could speak Thai and English. Khem ended up being that person. She's been with the show ever since as part of the infrastructure team. She secures local contracts to build crew housing and facilities, sets up lines of communication, supplies, etc. Then, once the show starts, she makes sure the right things arrive to the right place at the right time within budget, etc. How cool is that?
She and I have had a bit more time to hang out since arriving in Ubud. In part because she took on the task of creating a slideshow of our training. I've rejoiced at the fact I'm not the one responsible for it, but have had a great time talking with her about it and filling her photo requests. (She put together an awesome slideshow too.)
Just after noon Khem and I grabbed a cab into town with Elissa and Laura. The day was already hot. We got dropped at Ubud's primary intersection, Monkey Forrest and Main. The other girls headed in one direction in search of a less protein-centered meal. Khem and I walked about ten meters north on Jalan Suweta to Ibu Oka.
The warung was unassuming enough. At the entrance was a counter filled with every part of the pig. Behind the counter half dozen women moved around one another like bees, filling orders for Babi Guling: rice, succulent shank meat pulled off the bone, caramelized skin that cracked like candy brittle, and spiced blood sausage heavy with aromatics. Plates were quickly filled. Orders "for take away" stuffed banana leaf cones. The entirely outdoor seating space was already quite full.
"How about this?" Khem gestured to two squat stools at a bar built into the short front wall. A broad tree above cast deep shade, and the seats faced the street, giving an easy view to the city's activity.
"Perfect."
Within minutes, a cold Bintang in my hand and a house special on the way, we were toasting to whatever is next.
