Sunday, November 13, 2011

Surfboards

Dinner

This time in Bali - it doesn't exactly qualify as a vacation. Amazing views and bathtub-temperature waters aside, I'm not here as a traveler or even a tourist. Not yet any way.

My priorities since getting here have been 1) processing/recreating 2) learning the curriculum and 3) rest and recovery. For the most part the R&R has consisted of sleep, meditation, and lounging by the pool - with some beach walks and ocean swims thrown in for good measure. I've barely left my hotel property.

My adventure gene has been put on hold until the training is over. However, with the luxury of so many hours off, today I joined my friend Rene for a trip up to the main road to get a bite to eat at the night market.

Rene is from New York, Queens to be exact. She left her job some months ago and has been traveling around Southeast Asia since. In December she plans on returning to New York to sell what possessions she has in storage and then return to Indo. I like Rene. She tells good stories.

Rather than walking the scooter-filled drive from our hotel to the main road, we cut across another resort's property and a piece of green, terraced farmland to a small and rarely trafficked road. We passed a few carmel colored cows with sweet eyes and views of the black sand beach below. Our way was a small footpath used only by local fishermen, the handful of cattle, and ourselves.

Eventually our path reached a quiet paved road. Not-by-coincidence we emerged near Rene's friend Michael's house. Rene wanted to stop by to borrow a book he had told her about. Michael wasn't home but his very welcoming mama dog Semy was. Semy had a litter of puppies a little over a week ago. Rene showed me the compost pile that Semy had dug out to make a den. The afternoon light slid deep into the makeshift nursery and revealed five fuzzy, close-eyed pups piled atop one another. "Good job, Mama." Rene gave Semy a thorough rub all around the head and neck, "She must be tired," and we were on our way.

Another fifteen minutes and we reached the main road. With a quick turn to the right we went from quiet country lane to a jam-packed, exhaust filled (still two lane) road with speeding scooters, cars, vans, and huge loaded trucks. We made our way along the narrow broken shoulder, the free-form traffic flow moving steadily by.

The market was only a few blocks away, a dozen or so warungs, small food stands, edging a small dirt parking lot. "This is the one I was telling you about." Rene led me to a cart with four short stools in front of its narrow counter. We sat. Rene made small talk in broken Indonesian with the woman who made our dinner.

Sayum Ayur. Spicy chicken, coated with seasonings and then deep fried. The chicken was served with stir-fried veggies, shrimp chips and peanut sauce. The heat in the chicken came from copious amounts of fresh ginger. Delicious. My first meal made for locals since I've been here. I couldn't have been happier.

On the way back we picked up a couple of other people from our group. Evelyn, from Barcelona, is also making a go of tramping around SE Asia. I think she's at about two years now. Matt, from Massachusetts, is in his early twenties and has got to be one of the most likable people I've ever met.

We stopped on the bluffs and watched the sun go down. We talked about yoga and travel and home. The sky turned dark and lightning started to flash in the building thunderheads. At a good pace we headed back to our hotel. The skies let loose just before we reached shelter. Soaked to the bone, I finished my big adventure. It has been a good day.